The Bridal Council

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10 Questions With François Damide, President of Solstiss Lace

FRANÇOIS DAMIDE, PRESIDENT AND CEO, SOLSTISS LACE

1) When was Solstiss Lace established?

The company/brand Solstiss was founded in 1974, in Caudry, Northern France, from a merger of 4 lace manufacturers, each dating back to the late 19th century. 

2) Tell us a bit about the company, its legacy and family business.

As mentioned above, Solstiss is a merger of 4 lace manufacturers, with a 5th one joining later. The goal was to join forces to offer the largest lace design collection in the world. We currently have more than 10,000 designs, widths and colors in our line.!

Last year, Solstiss purchase 30% of another lace maker group, bringing the company to be the leader in traditional lace making in France, with 100+ Leavers looms, (more than half in existence).  Today Solstiss is owned by the Machu family. 

3) Name the top designers you sell worldwide?

Chanel, Dolce Gabbana, Celine, Gucci, Saint Laurent, Dior, Burberry, Michael Kors,   Ralph Lauren, to name a few…

4) How long have has Solstiss sold to the bridal industry? 

Since its beginning. Our early customers in the US were Alfred Angelo, Eve of Milady, Jessica McClintock, Rina di Montella and Demetrios.

5) Are there many different types of laces that are produced or is there a specialty that Solstiss homes in on? 

We offer all types of laces, from the sheer and delicate Chantilly to plain organic cotton lace, to the heavier hand beaded & embellished, to the Alencon (corded lace).   

6) Is there a signature to the laces that a customer can tell it is authentic?

Our ateliers have been manufacturing lace for more than a century using the same (Leavers) looms, along with its hand finished process.  As such, its finesse and detailing of its designs, give an unparallel look and touch. 

7) What are the challenges that Solstiss faces today relating to sustainability and cost?

Because we are based in France, the EU environmental regulations are much stricter than in the US, and the rest of the world. As such, we need to change and adapt most of our coloring and finishing agents every year, to meet the updated standards. The labor laws in France are also very demanding, hence very happy employees! But those requirements do have a costing effect on our prices. We are expensive, not because we wish to be, but because our manufacturing costs are high. 

That being said, the main challenge we are facing today, are coming from low labor costs countries, where new lace makers, are copying our lace designs with no scruples… (our attorneys are very busy suing them). But in the meantime, they are taking substantial market share from us hurting us, and our European competitors. FYI 40 years ago, there were more than 60 lace makers in France, today we are 5. 

8) Can designers personalize designs? 

We can personalize our laces, either with a custom embellishment work, or a custom color. For a new design creation, it is possible, but it will take about 8 months, with a set-up fee.  

9) What are the lace trends today in bridal?

Trend tends to be difficult to explain, as each designers has its own signature style. But I can see 2 main trends: 

  • A very light, romantic, flowy style, like Chantilly. Either in allover or in trims.

  • A very busy corded Alencon type lace.   

10) Tell us about the Solstiss Academy and who are the participating schools?

The mission of the Solstiss Academy is to give the opportunity to fashion students across the US to discover the history of French lace, to learn about the intricacy of working with an Haute Couture textile, and to create 3 looks using Solstiss lace. 

The participating schools for the 2023/2024 year are: Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising of Los Angeles, Fashion Institute of Florida, Istituto Marangoni of Miami, Kent State University, Otis College of Art and Design, Parsons School of Design, and Savannah College of Art and Design. 

A total of 67 students participated in this program, where Solstiss donated a total of $55,000 of lace, for students to design their garments. Throughout the process, a coaching was put into place to ensure that working with lace was done smoothly.  Each student is assessed on creativity, innovation, craftsmanship, and overall aesthetics. The jury awarded all participating students “The Leavers Lace Expert Diploma” and the top students will receive lace prizes valued at $33,000 total. 

Finally, the winning garments from each school (7 looks total) will be sent to France for a special exhibit at the Lace & Embroidery Museum of Caudry in Northern France.  This exhibit, opening November 7th, will celebrate American Fashion Schools & French Lace making, which is a first!