Expert Advice - HOW TO PRESERVE YOUR WEDDING GOWN from Jonathan Scheer of J.Scheer and Co.

Jonathan Scheer

1) Should a bride worry about the condition of the dress during her wedding?

NO, as long as common sense and some simple tips are followed if something unforeseen happenS, like a large spillage. The vast majority of issues arising from wear - staining, rips, tears etc. - can be successfully resolved by professionals in textile care after the wedding.

2) What happens if you spill on the dress during the wedding?

As a general rule do not engage in any activity that could exacerbate the situation and lead to permanent damage. For example, never apply water or seltzer to a liquid spillage. Water acts as an accelerant and will help to permanently imbed constituent parts of the liquid - alcohol, dye, acids - into the fibers of the textile. Once dry, the remnants of the stain will set, making it much more difficult or impossible to reverse the damage. Further, many wedding gown fabrics such as silk chiffon and organza are hydrophobic and can permanently change texture when wetted with water.

3) For liquid stains, like alcohol, what should you do?

For liquid stains, particularly ones that contain sugars, dye, and acids such as wine, liquor, or coffee blot the area with a clean white cloth. Repeat the process until all excess liquid has been absorbed into the cloth. Then apply powder - baby powder, corn starch or a combination of the two - to the area and be patient as the powder absorbs what moisture remains. The moistened powder can be brushed away with a soft bristled brush and fresh powder reapplied to mask the area. The principle is to draw the liquid away from the face fabric and to minimize absorption into the fabric of the textile. What remains of the stain can then be safely removed by a professional after the wedding.

4) What should be in the emergency wedding day kit?

So, let's start by listing what should NOT be included. No pre-mixed liquid stain removers that do not list the contents on the bottle!  This is a recipe for disaster. If used unsuccessfully you can easily cause permanent, irreversible damage. Additionally, no "stain sticks". They usually contain bleach which might mask a stain but will burn the delicate dress fibers and potentially cause irreversible damage. Now, what should be included in an emergency kit? A tin of powder that closely matches the color of your dress. This can be achieved by mixing baby powder with corn starch. As noted above, applying the powder will do no harm to the fabric, mask most stains and safely prepare the area for care by a professional after the wedding. Next, have a clean white absorbent towelette. Include a small, soft bristled brush. A needle, white thread and a few clear buttons will help to temporarily secure a broken bustle tie or a partially fallen hem. Lastly, include a few Shout wipes (not baby wipes, which contain oil) which can be helpful to safely dissolve small oily stains such as drips of olive oil or small sMudges of makeup.

5) What about lipstick?

Lipstick has both an oily and a dye component and because it is tacky it usually will not readily absorb into dress fibers. It will sit as an accretion on the face fabric. So, first take a dull edged knife and gently lift as much of the substance as you can by sliding the knife edge under the stain without pushing what is left into the fabric. Then apply powder to the surface to mask the stain. This will stabilize the area and protect it for further treatment by a professional after the wedding.

6) What about grass stains?

The chemical composition of grass stains is complicated and should be left untreated so a professional in textile care can address them after the wedding. Luckily most grass stains are found at the hem and will not be readily visible during the celebration.

7) WHAT ABOUT Ripped fabric?

Ripped and torn fabric is best mended by professional conservators who understand original construction and have the hand sewing expertise to replicate it. 

8) What kind of materials do you use to pack the dress once it is cleaned and restored and
why is that important?

We use only tested and certified acid free and chemically inert materials to prepare gowns in our care for safe long term storage.  It is critically important iN aS much as supporting tissue that is not acid free will "off gas" and acids will migrate to the dress fabric causing irreversible damage to the delicate fibers. Our textile conservation boxes are made of fluted archival polypropylene and are chemically inert. We never present back to clients gowns which are "vacuum sealed". Conservation scientists overwhelmingly agree that organic textiles are at far greater risk of permanent degradation when deprived of oxygen for long periods of time and then reintroduced to an oxygenated environment when the chamber is opened. Textiles in our care are presented back to clients in such a way so that they can be enjoyed for many years housed in an environment that safely supports both the physical and chemical integrity of the dress.

9) Does it get folded or hung after it is cleaned?

For short term storage either in between ceremonies or before it is worN, a wedding gown can safely be hung as long as it is supported by a padded hanger so the weight can be as evenly distributed as possible. For long term storage, after the wedding, heavy gowns should be carefully folded with the folds supported by rolled layers of acid free tissue. The dress should then be carefully placed in a chemically inert textile storage box ample enough so the weight of the textile is evenly distributed.

10) Can you and should you open the box after it has been cleaned and restored and where is the best place to store it?

Yes! We encourage brides to open the box as frequently as monthly and to do so in a clean environment away from direct sunlight. Turn off forced air heated and air conditioning systems so that dust and other particulate matter does not find its way into the dress chamber. Contrary to commonly published misinformation, air gently flowing through organic dress fibers is a good thing, not a bad thing. All heirloom textiles should be stored in a cool, dark dry environment in the owner's living area, never in an attic (too hot) or a basement (too humid).